Getting there
Ascent
From the narrow Forcella della Marmolada traverse north to a small gully. Ascend this to a polished slab which, equipped with pegs, leads up through the first section of the west face to reach, via a ramp leftwards, the western crest. Follow this and coast above the immense south face: beneath are 800m of fantastic limestone and some of the most famous climbing routes in the entire Dolomites. Follow the obvious line to reach the snowy summit plateau and the Punta Penia hut (3343m). The 360Ý panorama from the highest point in the Dolomites will not disappoint.
Descent
Descend along the line of ascent. Alternatively, follow the classic traverse to Pian dei Fiacconi along the north face and the "Schiena di mulo" crest. From the crest follow the markers to scramble over rocks down to the glacier. Continue roped up throughout the crevace strewn terrain to reach Rifugio Pian dei Fiacconi (2625m) and the cable car.
The Queen of the Dolomites and the highest peak in this magnificent massif, Punta Penia, attracts hikers and mountaineers throughout the entire year. The classic Cresta Ovest places ferrata skills into a severe alpine environment: this traverse and descent along the normal route through the Marmolada glacier to Pian dei Fiacconi requires solid mountaineering skills and stable weather.
